Rajasthani Turbans: Safa, Pagdi and Pag

Rajasthani Turbans: Safa, Pagdi and Pag

Pagari or Pagdi is the term used for turban in Rajasthan and neighbouring states. It is usually a long plain unstiched cloth with varying. The colour and quality of cloth indicates the social class, caste, and region of the pagdi wearer. Pagdis in hot areas such as Bikaner and Jaisalmer are loose as people need protection for harsh climatic elements of the earth. On another hand, pagdi in montane areas are tightly wrapped around the head. It has other practical uses such as it is used as a pillow, a blanket or a towel by the nomads or travellers, it can be used for straining muddy water and it can be used as a rope to fetch water from well. There are four other variants of Pagdi: Safa, Pencha, Fenta, Potia and Pag.

Different Types of Pagdis
Pag: It made by a cloth of 14 to 20 m in length.
Pagdi: It made by a cloth of 13 to 15 m in length.
Pencha: It is a special type of Pagdi with golden zari work at one end.
Safa: It usually broader in size but equal in length of pagdi.
Fenta: It is known for its full fledged silver and golden embroidery.
Potia: It is a simple pagdi used to save oneself from extreme climatic conditions.

Colour Symbolism in Pagdi
Dark colours are used in winters whereas light colors are chosen for summers. However, colours also have hidden symbols and different colour coded pagdis are worn by a person on different occassion.

Saffron: The saffron colour symbolizes the bravery, valor, sacrifice and courage. Earlier, this saffron pagdis were worn by Rajput men in battleground. Nowadays, saffron coloured pagdis are worn by politician to showcase their political poweress. The saffron coloured pagdis are also worn on the day of akshay tritya.
Red: The red colour symbolizes love and happiness. These pagdis are worn on the occasion of marriage and festivals.
Multi-coloured Leheriya: Multi-coloured lehriya pagdis were exclusively worn by the member of Jaipur royalty, but nowadays it is worn by the people of Jaipur region. It is also known as Rajashahi Pagdi.

Pags of Marwar
Khidakiya Pag
Khidakiya Pag was popular in use till the end of 17th century. It was worn by both royal and common men. However, it is worn on the occassion of Gangaur by Isri Maharaj.

Takhtshahi Pag
Maharaja Takhat Singh was adopted from Gujarat by Maharaja Man Singh. Therefore, his Gujarati origin influenced his pag style. His papa was oddly shaped having long and tubular shape.

Jaswantshahi Pag
Jaswantsahi pag is a stylized version of Takhtshahi Pag popularized by Maharaj Jasawant Singh. The pag is wrapped on one end on the left eye, it looks like a hat. A small hang was left on one end of the pag, which was turned back upwards and stitched for the pag. This craze became popular after the year 1893.

Zalim shahi Pag (Rathoree Pag)
Maharaja Zalim Singh was the son of Maharaja Takhat Singh. He adopted Jaswant Shahi Pag but added several personal touchs. He removed the partition and reduced the length of pag and made it more capinum. On one side of the pag, the girder was stitched.

Jodhpuri Safa
The Jodhpuri Safa was prevalent since the times of Maharaja Ajit Singh, but it was made popular by Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. It is known for its distinct length and size.

Vijayshahi Pag
Vijayashahi Pag was popularized by Maharaja Vijay Singh.

Pagdis of Mewar
Udayshahi Pagdi
It was popularized by Maharana Uday Singh. It is known for zari work on khag and three pachvediyas were added on other side.

Amarshahi Pagdi
It was popularized by Maharana Amar Singh. It is known for its highly stylized khag and two pachvediyas.

Arsishahi Pagdi
It was first used by Maharana Ari Singh. It is known for its use of feather. The pagari was highly accessorized.

Bhimshahi Pagdi
The Bhimshahi became prevalent after Maharana Bhim Singh. It is known for its thik and parrot nose size khag.

Swaroopshahi Pagdi
It became popular after Maharana Swaroop Singh. It is known for its use of two feathers and highly stylized zari work.